From Dior’s New Direction to Valentino’s Renaissance

While the recent heatwave had most of us sheltering indoors, I found the perfect escape by reviewing the latest Paris Haute Couture runways.

The 2026 Paris Haute Couture collections was marked by debuts.

Specifically, it saw the first Haute Couture Collections from Jonathan Anderson for Dior; Matthieu Blazy for Chanel; and Alessandro Michele for Valentino.

And the outcome?

A fascinating tension between theatricality and true wearability, where the craft that is Haute Couture was celebrated.

Dior’s Bold New Silhouette

Jonathan Anderson delivered his first haute couture collection for Dior, and the impact was immediate.

As a personal stylist, the first thing that struck me was the palette, followed closely by the silhouettes.

Between the vibrant colours and the unique flourishes — particularly the footwear, which I loved and the pom pom floral ear decorations, which I did not — Anderson created a memorable, and interesting collection.

While it may not feel immediately “relatable” as everyday wear, it was a dynamic and exciting start to his tenure.

Subtle Elegance at Armani Privé

Over at Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani’s niece – Silvana Armani who has worked for the brand for 40 years presented a collection that was a masterclass in subtlety.

While more pared-down than her uncle’s previous offerings, it spoke directly to the brand’s loyal clientele.

The soft mint greens and pale pinks are universally flattering tones that make a statement without shouting.

By eschewing the heavy Art Deco embellishments typically associated with Giorgio, the focus shifted to a distinctly European, wearable sensibility.

I mention this because it was in such contrast to the collection from Alessandro Michele for Valentino.

Valentino: The Rise of Alessandro Michele

The Valentino collection by Alessandro Michele arrived just days after the passing of the legendary founder, Valentino Garavani.

Michele has shed his “Boho Gucci” skin, emerging as a true heir to the throne of embellishment.

While the opening look honoured the signature Valentino Red, the collection was a treasure trove of art deco, 1930s-inspired glamour and 80’s excess:

• Bejewelled caps and headpieces.
• Stunning capes referencing the Art Deco period.
• Renaissance-inspired ruffs paired with 80s silhouettes.

Presented as a “peep show,” the theatrical styling hid a highly wearable core.

Unlike previous seasons, I could easily imagine many of these looks in a high-end wardrobe.

It was a vision of women as creators of dynamic, vital lives.

Chanel: A Quiet Afternoon Tea?

In contrast, Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel Haute Couture focused almost entirely on wearability yet lacked a certain “spark.”

The collection — filled with soft tones and reimagined Chanel suits — suggested a vision of women with limited roles where they project delicacy and fragility.

This is a sopheric vision for women, enhanced by the runway voiceover and music.

A mushroom themed set left me wondering – are women meant to be mushrooms?

The vision felt somewhat passive.

It suggested a world where women are enjoying afternoon tea in an English garden — beautiful, yes, but perhaps lacking the vitality and risk-taking spirit offered by Michele at Valentino.

Elevate Your Personal Style

Are you inspired by the Paris runways but unsure how to translate couture trends into your everyday wardrobe?

Let’s find your signature silhouette together.