Daniel Roseberry’s world

Schiaparelli Spring 2023 Couture

Did you see the images? The entre was Dojo Cat in a Schiaparelli red dress, head to toe in red body paint and 30,000 Swarovski crystals.

The main course? Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Spring 2023 Couture collection.

Including dresses wearing animal heads – a wolf, lion, and leopard to be exact this collection is making headlines.

Beyond the headlines, the collection takes us into Daniel Roseberry’s world.

Populating Daniel Roseberry’s world is impeccably tailoring and bejewelled tops, skirts, and dresses.

In Daniel Roseberry’s world the silhouette is impossibly thin and androgynous. And, the clothes mainly come in black and white.

Sleeves finish below the fingers, and overblown shoulders and lapels are accentuated by nipped in waists.

Roseberry takes the shoulders Dries van Noten recently presented to another level. When combined with in a gold opera cape and Miu Miu style micro mini it creates a stunning show finale.

This collection also features bodice screens which hide the chin and in some the face – these looks are as riveting to look at as they are impractical.

The themes in the styling are there and there are breathtaking looks but somehow this collection lacks cohesion and joy.

The world of Daniel Roseberry is ‘inspired by’ the Inferno of Dante’s Divine Comedy perhaps this is why it lacks a lightness of touch and joy.

Though it seems that there is still a lot of ideas from the Schiaparelli archives to explore.

While the use of the headline grabbing animal heads will be debated it will be the slimline silhouettes and overblown shoulders that we can expected to see in mainstream collections.